Ramen Part 2: Soup
Now it is time to make our ramen soup. Ramen stock is generally divided into two categories, based on the style of preparation:
chintan, which is characterized by clear golden appearance like a french stock, or
paitan, which is white, cloudy and creamy. Chintan means clear (or pure) soup, whereas paitan means white soup. In this case I'll make paitan.
First, I begin with a whole chicken. This one is a rooster; in fact I recommend either roosters or stewing hens, rather than ordinary whole chickens, as these have more flavour when making soup while costing much less. I won't show how to part out the chicken, since this is well known and you can learn how to do it on youtube.

The chicken carcass, as well as about 25% of its weight in chicken feet, are added to a stock pot. Our goal is to pre-boil the bones for 10-15 minutes to prepare for cooking proper.

The purpose of the pre-boiling process is to remove impurities which darken the stock and impart bitter flavour. Most pernicious is myoglobin, which, when coming into contact with fat at high temperatures, forms a disgusting compound of scum. Scum ruins the flavour of the stock and looks gross. It is a grey-red foam which looks almost like sea foam. Using a spoon or fine mesh strainer, skim off the scum. Then agitate the meat to release more and continue until none remains.

Once the scum is skimmed, wash the bones under water and then transfer to a pressure cooker, cooking at least 2 (for chicken, or 3 for pork) hours under pressure.


When the pressure cooking is done, we can finally enjoy our great- wait why does it look horrible?

The answer is because the stock is not emulsified. A large amount of protein, fat, gelatin, etc. have been released in cooking but are not integrated into the water, leaving us with a grey cloudy mess. The next step is to transfer to a stock pot and boil with the bones at a rolling boil for one hour. This is the same time I used in my gumbo recipe-it's a good idea to go for at least an hour to make a good emulsion where fat is evenly spread among the water. Please don't try an immersion blender.

After an hour the emulsion is complete (notice the drastic change in appearance!) and we add aromatics - onion, garlic, scallion, carrot, celery, and ginger - to enhance the flavour profile. I go heavy on aromatics but that is also personal preference.


One our of cooking is peak infusion time for veggies, so we set the stock aside and begin work on our tare.

Tare is the broth seasoning of ramen. You'll notice that I didn't add any salt or pepper yet and this is intentional. A few teaspoons of tare is enough to season a whole bowl of ramen. This facilitates the restaurant culture where combinations between stock and tare can be made for each customer's ticket. In our case we'll make shoyu or soy sauce tare. We begin by making niboshi dashi from dried sardines:

Now we add the rest of the ingredients - one part dashi, four parts dark soy sauce (the ordinary kind you find in stores), two parts light soy sauce, half a part sake and half a part mirin, half a part salt and a quarter part MSG. (Optionally, a quarter part oyster sauce may be added.) Finally, some green onion and ginger are added and we simmer on the stove in a saucepan for a couple hours.

The result is a sauce so intense you should cringe in disgust from trying it, while also wanting more. This is adopted from an internet recipe I found. Notice the volume of the sauce has reduced a bit, from around 1.3 cups to 1 or so. You might want to water it down, or take this into account when preparing the bowls.

Finally, we can make aromatic oil. It's a special topping that is meant to distribute in the bowl when the broth is poured in, to add additional flavour. I like allium flavored oil, so I prepare chopped garlic, shallot, and scallion to add to a saucepan of oil, preferably peanut or clarified butter (I was in a jiffy so I used rapeseed oil, orz) and add some chicken skin for that chicken flavour. (I was also hoping it would bring the oil to a solid state in the fridge to help preservation, though this did not occur. If you do use a vegetable oil, I advise adding animal fat to achieve that.) It's worth mentioning there are many kinds of oil depending on the ramen style and you can experiment with your own ideas to complement your bowl.

Phew! That was a lot. Now all we have to do is make the noodles and put together a bowl. Join me tomorrow for the end of the ramen post which hopefully will inspire you to try and make your own soup. Mata ne!